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Jeju Dongmun Market: unique glimpse of island life
Date
2016.11.14
Views
882

According to Yonhap News,

(JEJU ISLAND=Yonhap News) South Korea's southern resort island of Jeju, often compared to Hawaii by tourists, has a lot to offer. The island has not only natural wonders and chic five-star hotels but also traditional markets that give tourists a glimpse of how the locals live.

Jeju Dongmun Traditional Market, located near Jeju International Airport and other major tourist spots such as white sandy Hyupjae beach on the northern tip of the island, is one of the largest markets on the island with over 300 vendors lining the narrow streets that sell indigenous goods ranging from silver scabbardfish known as "jagalchi" to citrus fruit.

Jeju's fisheries and agricultural goods are well known for high quality due to the island's geographical nature and locals' zest to keep natural resources. The products from the mainland are often no match for those found here.

The market, which was first built in 1945 following Korea's liberation from the Japanese colonial rule, was burnt to ashes in 1954. The market was soon reopened at the current location and has since served as the center of the island's commerce.

 

One of the main gates to Jeju Dongmun Traditional Market on the southern resort island of Jeju. (Yonhap)

Up until few years ago, the market had been predominantly frequented by island locals selling and buying everything ranging from fisheries and agricultural products to clothes.

Female divers known as "haenyeo" set up temporary stalls along the market to sell freshly-caught seafood, such as abalone. The divers, whose average age is over 60, are a symbol of the island as they dive up to 20 meter under water without any breathing equipment.

"The market was the centerpiece of everyday lives of Jeju people," said Baek Geum-nyeo, a former haenyeo who is now one of merchants at Dongmun. "I used to open the temporary vendor along the outskirt of the market, hoping to sell everything I caught earlier in the morning."

The market, picked by the Korea Tourism Organization as one of the country's 50 must-go traditional markets, has recently become the top tourist spot amid a rising number of foreign visitors. Nearly 10,000 people visit the market every day.

Merchants sell various products made with Jeju Island's indigenous products such as tangerine and seafood. (Yonhap)

The number of foreign tourists who visited the island came to 2.62 million in 2015, a jump from 1.81 million in 2013, according to data by the Jeju Special Self-Governing Province. Under a special act for Jeju Island, all foreign visitors except those from terrorism-linked countries, can enter and stay on the resort island without a visa for up to 30 days if the purpose of their stay is tourism.

The southern corner of the market is where vendors sell fish or seafood that have been caught on that day to ensure quality and freshness.

Customers can purchase goods to take home or carry them over to nearby restaurants or vendors within the market to ask for them to be sliced up to raw food dish, known as "hoe."

The restaurants often charge the customer a small fee, usually 20,000 won (US$17), for the gutting of the fish and other side dishes. Despite an extra charge, the dishes are often half the price compared to those of other sea food restaurants adjacent to tourist sites.


Jeju Dongmun Traditional Market's wet market is one of the places on the island where tourists can purchase and taste fish at reasonable prices. (Yonhap)

Squid known as "hanchi" and halibut are the most favored fish during July-October period as they are not only tasty and easily edible for foreigners but also reasonably priced.

"Not only tourists, but Jeju people have been coming to the market for decades as the price of the fish and seafood here is relatively cheap, even compared to other traditional marketplaces," Shin Cheol-ho, one of the market's merchants.

Beyond raw seafood, foodies can experience an array of local specialties made out of seafood and seaweed at nearby small vendors that are priced between 3,000 to 70,000 won.

One of Jeju Island's famous dishes is abalone porridge called "jeonbokjuk" that is often considered by South Koreans as a symbol of healthy food. The rice-based porridge has greenish hue from the innards of the abalone.

Raw food dish, known as "hoe" in Korean. (Yonhap)

In order to provide foreigners with other abalone dishes with a more attractive appearance, restaurants at the market also serve abalone with rice known as "bibimbap" that is served in the stone pot bowl.

What makes this abalone bibimbap different from the ones sold in other parts of the country is that not only is abalone freshly caught on that day but a spoonful of butter is also served with for a savory taste.

Along the other side is a line of vendors selling the island's indigenous citrus fruits and different kinds of tangerines.

Among tangerines that are only grown on the island are "hwanggeumhyang," roughly translated to gold scent, and "cheonyehyang" that are both sweeter and more sour than regular tangerines.

Tourists take a look at Jeju Island's indigenous citrus fruit at Jeju Dongmun Traditional Market. (Yonhap)

Jeju merchants have also been making effort to produce and sell various products out of tangerine including famous tangerine chocolate and "makgeolli," the indigenous traditional rice wine, to meet the needs of young customers and foreigners.

"Merchants have been making effort to transform the (Dongmun) market more attractive to foreign customers and youngsters visiting the island," said Shin. "Competition is fierce and we have to keep on developing new products."

The indigenous alcohol drinks, made of the island's "hallabong" oranges, are also reasonably priced between 2,000 and 5,000 won a bottle, hallabong chocolate at 10,000 won, and hallabong juice at 3,000 won at vendors.


Various types of "makgeolli," the indigenous traditional rice wine, made from Jeju Island's indigenous citrus fruits are sold by vendors at Jeju Dongmun Traditional Market. (Yonhap)


Ollhe honey bread at Jeju Dongmun Traditional Market. (Photo courtesy of the Korea Tourism Organization)

Other vendors also sell indigenous rice cakes and breads based with citrus fruits and red beans grown on the island.

Olleh honey bread based with tangerine honey is priced at just 1,000 won each and tangerine bread shaped like "Dolhareubang" is also one of the best-sought snacks.

"I visited Jeju Island from Seoul to break away from troubles on the mainland," said Ryu Sim-na, a Korean-American living in Seoul. "I expected the island to be only fancy, but this marketplace is exciting as I can experience and taste the island's various food."

Abalone with rice known as "bibimbap" that is served in the stone pot bowl. (Yonhap)

Souvenir hunters can also purchase various goods at relatively low prices compared to other souvenir shops or duty free shops just with a bit of haggling.

"I bought a stone grandfather from one of the vendors here at the cheapest price. The product was offered for two to four times the price at touristic spots," said Jessi from Singapore.

"Dolhareubang," which is translated to rock statue of grandfather, is one of the symbols of the island which is known for three things -- wind, rocks and women. Rock is a an island symbol as 90 percent of the land is formed on basalt.

In an effort to give tourism a boost, the South Korean government said earlier that it will provide 1 billion won to the Dongmun market so that it can set up extra stalls and launch a night market.

Jeju locals also visit Jeju Dongmun Traditional Market. (Yonhap)

The move comes as there has been concern that the island lacks nightlife spots for tourists, including a night market that is often sought by foreign tourists.

"We have received 1 billion won and is in the course of mapping out a plan to open the night market in March," said Kang In-kyu, a provincial government official in charge of the project. "The provincial government aims to attract more Chinese travelers arriving on the island through cruise."

Jeju Island announced a five-year plan to draw a total of 1,000 port entries by foreign cruise ships, mostly Chinese, as well as 2.3 million cruise tourists in the five years until 2020. The Port of Jeju welcomed a record number of 920,000 passengers as of September this year.

Vendors exclusively selling souvenir products telling of Jeju myths and other accessories as well as parking lots will be expanded next year as street parking just outside the market can be difficult at peak hours, said Kang.

HOW TO GET THERE: Jeju Island is accessible by plane from major cities including Seoul, Daegu and Busan, as well as regular passenger ships leave the port city of Incheon, just west of Seoul. Located on the northern part of the island the market is connected to numerous bus lines, including 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, 7, or 17 and express 10, 28, 36, 37, 87, 92, 100 and 500. Visitors can get off at Dongmun Traditional Market bus stop which is about a 10 minute drive from Jeju International Airport.

khj@yna.co.kr

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Source Text

Source: Yonhap News (Nov. 11, 2016)
** This article was translated from the Korean.